Practices of Then by Tày, Nùng and Thái Ethnic Groups

The haunting melody rises from bamboo pipes, threading through mountain mist as a shaman adorned with indigo and red sways in gentle rhythm. Her voice becomes a bridge between worlds, carrying the whispered prayers of villagers upward to celestial realms while spectators sit transfixed, their faces illuminated by flickering candlelight.

The Practices of Then represent one of Vietnam's most profound spiritual and cultural traditions, preserved and performed by the Tày, Nùng, and Thái ethnic groups primarily across the northern highlands. This ancient shamanic ritual combines elements of singing, instrumental music, dance, and elaborate ceremonies to facilitate communication between the human and spiritual worlds. Recognized by UNESCO as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2019, Then practices embody the collective wisdom, spiritual beliefs, and artistic expression of these ethnic communities.

Celestial Origins: When Heaven Met the Highlands

According to ancient legends passed through generations, Then originated when a heavenly being descended to Earth and married a Tày man. She brought with her the knowledge of connecting with spiritual realms and taught the local people to communicate with gods and ancestors through ritual, music, and dance. This divine connection became the foundation of the Then practice.

Over centuries, Then evolved uniquely across different communities while maintaining its essence. For the Tày and Nùng peoples, Then became intertwined with Taoism after its introduction during the 8th-9th centuries, incorporating concepts of the universe's natural order. Among Thái communities, Then developed distinct regional characteristics while preserving its function as a spiritual bridge.

Despite facing challenges during various historical periods, particularly during times of cultural regulation, Then has persisted as a living tradition, adapting while maintaining its core identity as a sacred practice that connects communities to their ancestors and deities.

The Sacred Performance: Ritual, Music, and Spiritual Journey

At the heart of Then practices is the Then Master (or shaman), typically a woman who serves as a medium between the human world and the spirit realm. The ritual unfolds as a complex, multi-layered performance:

• Musical Elements: The tính tẩu (a plucked string instrument) and pí pưt (bamboo pipes) form the primary instruments, creating distinctive melodies that guide the spiritual journey.
• Then Songs: These ritual songs feature a unique language combining ancient words with the vernacular of Tày, Nùng, or Thái, telling stories of creation, heroic deeds, and spiritual beliefs.
• Ceremonial Attire: The Then Master wears elaborate costumes featuring vibrant colors, particularly indigo and red, adorned with symbolic embroidery representing cosmic elements.
• Ritual Space: The ceremony requires careful preparation of a sacred space with mã ngựa (paper horses), offerings of food and wine, incense, and other symbolic items.

During major ceremonies, the Then Master undertakes a spiritual journey to celestial realms, using her tính tẩu as both musical instrument and symbolic horse to traverse spiritual planes. This journey may last hours or even days, during which she communicates with ancestors, deities, and spirits, seeking blessings for harvests, healing for the sick, guidance for community decisions, or solutions to collective problems.

The Cosmic Tapestry: Weaving Community and Spirituality

The Practices of Then transcend mere ritualistic performance to form a comprehensive worldview that binds communities together. For the Tày, Nùng, and Thái peoples, Then represents their understanding of the universe's structure—a cosmic hierarchy where human existence is just one layer in a complex spiritual ecosystem.

Then practices reinforce community bonds through collective participation and shared belief. During ceremonies, entire villages gather, reinforcing social ties while connecting with their ancestral heritage. This connection proves especially important for younger generations, who gain understanding of their cultural identity through witnessing and participating in these rituals.

Beyond spiritual functions, Then preserves ancient knowledge about the natural world, traditional medicine, agricultural cycles, and ethical principles for harmonious living. Each song, gesture, and ritual element contains encoded wisdom about maintaining balance between humans and their environment—a philosophy increasingly recognized for its relevance to contemporary sustainability concerns.

Experiencing Then: A Traveler's Guide to Sacred Encounters

For travelers seeking authentic cultural experiences, witnessing Then practices offers a rare glimpse into living traditions that have shaped northern Vietnam's ethnic identity for centuries.

When and Where to Witness Then

The most accessible opportunities to experience Then practices occur during major festivals in the northern provinces, particularly:

• Lồng Tồng Festival (January-February): Celebrated across Tày communities in Cao Bằng and Lạng Sơn provinces to pray for prosperous crops.
• Then Singing Festivals in Hà Giang, Tuyên Quang, and Bắc Kạn provinces (typically held between February and April).
• Cultural Performance Centers in larger towns like Lạng Sơn city offer scheduled performances that showcase elements of Then.

For more immersive experiences, community-based tourism in villages like Bản Giốc (Cao Bằng) or Pác Bó allows visitors to stay with local families and potentially witness authentic ceremonies when they naturally occur.

Respectful Observation

When attending Then ceremonies, visitors should observe these guidelines:

• Ask permission before photographing ritual elements or Then Masters.
• Dress modestly and remove shoes when entering ritual spaces.
• Maintain quiet observation during ceremonies.
• Consider making a small donation to support the preservation of these traditions.

The true magic of Then lies in its authenticity—a living spiritual practice rather than a performance for tourists. Approach with genuine curiosity and respect, and you'll discover one of Vietnam's most profound cultural treasures, a tradition that continues to connect people with their ancestors, their environment, and each other across the misty mountains of the north.